Bhim is my
brother. He is my Nepalese brother. I met him three years ago on the streets of
Thamel in Kathmandu. We clicked immediately and we communicate constantly. I
was entranced by his encyclopedic knowledge of his country and I marveled at
his tales of when Nepal was a mighty kingdom. We still traipse around the back
streets of Kathmandu together whenever I visit - all the time laughing.
I ask Bhim
question after question. What is this? What is that? Which dynasty built this
palace? Bhim's patience with me is endearing and the pride that he has in his
country is wonderful.
Kathmandu is
an ancient and crumbling city. It has endured earthquakes and wars for more
than 2000 years yet it's beauty remains intact. The artisans and architecture
are spectacular.
Bhim assures
me that we are brothers. He tells me repeatedly and with absolute confidence
and conviction that we were once family. In a previous life.
I have no
reason to doubt this.
None at all.
I am going to
Nepal in the morning. The purpose of my visit is to attend the graduation from
high school of Aishworya. Aishworya is Bhim's eldest daughter. She is sixteen
years old and she wants to be a nurse. She will be. Aish is like a daughter to
me. She has a heart of pure gold.
Like many
Nepalese, Bhim and his family live in a single room in a dilapidated apartment
block. He lives with his wife Amolika, his wife's sister Apala, and his three
children Aishworya, Jasmine and Bhim Junior. Amolika means 'priceless' and
Apala translates to 'most beautiful'.
Nice huh?
I go to Bhim's
house often. Whenever I am in Kathmandu. They insist. I feel comfortable there
because they are my Nepalese family and I love them all. There is a single
light globe in Bhim's house and only two power points. There is no running
water and electricity is generally only on for 2 or 3 hours a day in Kathmandu.
Load shedding is constant. There is a power crisis in the country and there
will be for a while. Maybe forever. Aishworya and Jasmine often do their school
work by candle light. When Aish proudly shows me her essays they are often
dotted with candle wax. Reading the stories that she writes sometimes makes me
laugh out loud and they occasionally make me cry.
I have stained
her precious pages with my tears.
Bhim rises
each morning at 5.00am and lines up patiently at a communal water pump. He
gathers enough water for the family to wash and for Amolika and Apala to cook
with. Cooking is done on a gas burner. The family are Hindi so they are
vegetarians. The most delicious food I have ever eaten has been at Bhim's
house. The food is simple but is cooked with great love. Amolika and Apala
giggle with delight and blush when I tell them how delicious their food
is.
They love it.
They really
do.
Aishworya's
graduation is a very proud moment for the whole family and for me too. My heart
is bursting with pride. Bhim finished his education at the age of ten. This is
very common in Nepal. Like many of the Nepalese people Bhim comes from a
mountain village – high in the Himalaya. There are very few schools in the
villages and children are needed to work on the farms. To put food on the
table.
It is a very
hard life.
Bhim makes his
living now as a trekking guide. He tramps the streets of Nepal seeking tourists
to take into the mountains. He carries their packs and he shows them the
beautiful temples of Kathmandu. All for a few dollars a day. To feed his
family.
To survive.
Bhim now has
to compete with the Internet and the international trekking companies. It is
very tough and yet despite this hard life Bhim is one of the happiest people I
know.
He is content
with his lot.
He is at peace
with himself.
It is easy to
be dazzled by the beauty of Nepal. The mountains still take my breath away.
Every time I go back. Yet beneath this spectacular beauty is one of the most
impoverished nations in the world. There is even more beauty in the people. The
Nepalese people are tough. They endure hardship on a daily basis and at a level
that few of us can even imagine. Yet they endure and they prosper. Their
humility and friendliness and kindness are endearing. They are wonderful,
delightful and amazing people.
Their
contentment and happiness blows me away.
I often feel
ashamed at my pettiness when I go to Nepal. I cringe inside at how I so easily
take so many things for granted. Going to Nepal I get a much needed slap in my
face and I achieve a realization at how lucky I am really. How most of us are
actually. Happiness is not acquired through possessions and it is not achieved
through success. Happiness is not measured by the amount of money one has
accumulated. It can't be bought or rented. Happiness is decency. It is friends
and family and kindness and love.
Happiness is
Nepal too.
Bhim is my
brother.
I am going home to him tomorrow.
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