I am now back
in Kathmandu from Katunje. I am footsore and I am weary. I have walked a lot
today and I have also driven far. - on bumpy and dusty roads. Not roads really.
Mountain tracks. They are scarred by deep ravines that were gorged out by the
monsoon rains. The road is potted and rutted. Four wheel drive is essential or
the way is otherwise impassable.
I am dirty and
dusty and a bit smelly. I need a bath.
Some of the
walking I did today was with a Gurkha. His name is Abhik. The Ghurka are
Nepalese Mountain people. Their people are synonymous with the British Army.
They have served as a Regiment with the British for more than a century. The
men are very tough and strong and the women too I think. The Gurkha have a long
history as Warriors and their bravery and endurance are of legend.
The name Abhik
means 'fearless' in Nepali. It is an appropriate name for a Gurkha. A
former Head of the Indian Army once said, "If a man says he is not
afraid of dying, he is either lying or is a Gurkha."
The Gurkha are
also famous for the long curved daggers that they carry in their waist sashes.
These daggers are called Khukuri. Say it Cooo koori . Like a pigeon
cooing. These Knives are not just ornamental. Their blades are sharp and
wicked.
Abhik is a
retired soldier and he lives now on a small farm near Katunje. He was awarded
the land by the Nepali government for his years of service and he receives a
small pension from the miserly British. He still has his Khukuri. I know this
because he showed it to me. With great Pride.
The Gurkha
deal with the British Army was initiated by the East India Company. It was
initially a protection Racket. When the British were an Empire. This was a long
time ago - in the early part of the last century. The deal was likely a dodgy
one. British Colonialism during this period - and throughout history in fact -
has been as dodgy as it has been arrogant. They were Pirates.
Ask a
Faulkland Islander. An Argentinian One.
I find it very
amusing that the Chinese made the British pay rent on Hong Kong for 100 years -
all while the British were thinking that they had colonized it. It makes me
chuckle. It was brilliant. I am Australian so as a rule we don't like the
English. We have good reason although we require none.
I am flying
back to Singapore tomorrow. I am returning to work and warmth and comfort.
Familiarity.
I am however well
aware that I am going back also to opulence and extravagance and opportunity
and abundance.
No doubt I
will slip into nonchalant acceptance that the lights will turn on when I flick
a switch and that my Air Conditioning will work when I need to cool down. If my
tummy starts to rumble I know that I can quickly dash down to a Restaurant or a
Cafe. Just down the road. Or I can pick up my phone and I can dial up.
For Home
delivery.
I will quickly
and once again become blasé with such acceptance. I am acutely aware that I am returning
to all those things that are the opposite of Nepal. I do so willingly but I
hope I return with a little more sense of appreciation and humility.
The Nepali for
"Good Bye" is Bidha Pau. I always find it a sad phrase
when I am leaving.
I like to add “Ma
Turuntai Karkanchu”.
It is Nepali
for "I will be right back"
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