“Hey baby I’m home”
That’s
what I’d say if Kathmandu were a girl and not a city
And if
she were standing here in front of me.
She is
really – or more accurately - and less poetically, I am standing here in her.
I flew
in last night.
From
Delhi.
The
New one.
Although
I actually drove through the New one - to and from my office however I stayed
each night in the Old one.
Delhi.
I have
written about the naming and re-naming of Indian cities under different Empires
and government so I will not repeat myself here.
I
couldn’t be bothered.
I
reserve the term “baby” for ladies I love.
I call
my daughter Charlotte “baby” sometimes – as much as I call her Totty I would
think.
Maybe
more.
I also
call my very favourite niece Georgina “baby” as well.
Sometimes.
There
are a few other persons I have referred to as “baby” but they shall remain
nameless here in this blog thing.
I do
not use the word liberally and I reserve it for the girls in my life that I love.
Special
ladies.
Enough
said.
So
would Kathmandu be a woman if she had to have a gender?
Which
she doesn’t of course.
Or he.
I was just
pondering that whilst tapping.
I do
that sometimes.
The
Nepalese refer to the tallest of their mountains as Sagarmatha.
It
means “forehead in the sky”.
Or
something similar to that.
The
Tibetans name it “ Chomolunga” which sort of means the Mother of Earth.
We
refer to at as Everest – who was some Welsh bloke who in the early nineteenth
century worked in a British surveying office in India and might have had
something to do with maps. He lived and worked mostly in Delhi.
The Old
one I would have thought.
He was
knighted.
Sit
George Everest.
There
you go.
Tibet
and Nepal share the mountain.
It is
that big.
Both
believe the mountains to be female.
Same
for me with Kathmandu.
If
Kathmandu were this beautiful vibrant “baby” that I love - as I kiss her I might also enquire,
“S’up baby? How are you doin?’
She is
a little shy in public at times but she is curious.
She is
cheeky and funny and has a wry sense of humour.
She is
very quick and really smart.
She is
quirky but most of all she is humble and polite.
She is
decent and she is respectful and she is very kind.
She is
sexy and she is beautiful.
She is smokin'.
She is smokin'.
She
would call me “baby” back.
The
bulk of the Nepalese people’s heritage is from villages. These are in high and
isolated mountains. The villages are communities who are in many cases very
large extended families and the bond between the people is strong.
They
are gentle and they look after each other.
They
are rugged and tough people.
Very
tough.
Think
Ghurka.
They
are proud people who know their history and celebrate their culture.
Through
song and dance and colorful festivals.
I sat
next to a Tibetan Herbal Doctor at the Snowland School Lhasar celebration
today. He was to my right in the front row before the stage.
To my
left was the Guru Rinpoche – the Dolpo Buddha. The Doctor and I and many others
were the guests of the Guru.
Here
is a picture of the Guru and the Tibetan Herbal Doctor and I:
Lhasar
is the lunar year celebrations for Tibetans. They are predominantly Buddhist people.
It is
the year 2142 in Nepal.
I know
why it is not 2015 however I will not reveal it here.
Look
it up yourself
I’m
not fucking Wikipedia.
Without
any prompting the Tibetan Herbal Doctor told me that his religion was of the
Bon.
I told
him that I knew the Bon pre-dated Buddhism and it was considered the oldest
religion in the world.
The
Herbal Doctor said he was surprised that I knew of the Bon.
I said
nothing in reply.
I only
know a bit of the Bon.
The
Tibetan Herbal Doctor comes from the same village as Guru Rinpoche in the Upper
Dolpo region of the Nepali Himalaya. The village was once in Tibet then the
Chinese invaded and borders changed. Borders have always been a little blurred
in the mountains.
There
are monasteries nearby that are more than 1000 years old. They have been carved
out of what Everest would have mapped the Crystal mountains. One of the
monasteries is Rinpoche’s.
It is
the Shey Monastery
Shey Gompa to be exact.
Shey Gompa to be exact.
The
other two are the Saldang and Dho monasteries.
I
haven’t been there – I have only seen pictures.
They
are spectacular.
I
asked the Tibetan Herbal Doctor whether he treated patients with Yartsa Gumba
and he told me that he did.
He
told me he mixes it with other Tibetan herbs though.
Yartsa
Gumba is half animal and half plant. It grows
from the nose of a specific moth and only at extreme altitudes. It is one of
the rarest and most valuable commodities on earth and it only grows in the
Upper Dolpo and Upper Mustang regions. It is used in Chinese medicine and is a Cordyceps.
It is
a worm.
I have taken it.
I have
written of it before.
Once
again, I shall not repeat myself here.
The
Lhosar celebration and concert given by the children was spectacular. There was
much dancing and singing and laughing and clapping of hands.
The
children had a ball.
So did
I.
The
sun is setting now and the sky is pink. There is a chill in the air as the wind
blows down the valley from the mountains. From where I am sitting now I can see
the silhouette of the mountain Himalay Ganesh – the snow is still heavy on its
peak - and I can hear the distant sound of bells tolling and the chants of
monks before the taking of alms.
I can
smell the sweet odour of Frangipani from the gardens below.
It is
thick in the air.
Yes
I’ve missed you a lot Kathmandu baby.
Come
over here.
Let’s
dance.
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